About this book:

"Foodways of Empire: Culinary History and Regional Cuisines of China" offers a comprehensive cultural and gastronomic history of China, arguing that food is inextricably linked to power, identity, and societal development. The book traces the evolution of Chinese cuisine from ancient times to the modern era, examining how environmental factors, technological innovations, imperial policies, migrations, and religious beliefs have shaped what people eat and how it's prepared. It delves into the foundational role of staple grains like millet, rice, and wheat, and the transformative impact of preservation techniques such as salt-curing and soy fermentation, including the development of soy sauce and doubanjiang.

The narrative highlights the profound influence of external trade routes like the Silk Roads and maritime spice routes, which introduced new ingredients like sesame, grapes, and various spices, enriching the Chinese pantry and diversifying regional flavors. It explores the Grand Canal's crucial role in moving grain and fostering culinary exchange between the north and south, and examines the elaborate kitchens of the imperial court, where food served as a symbol of power, status, and ritual, influencing wider culinary trends. The book also details the rise of Buddhist vegetarian traditions within monasteries and their impact on meat substitutes and plant-based cooking.

A significant portion of the book is dedicated to analyzing specific regional cuisines, demonstrating how local ecology, history, and ethnic groups have forged distinct culinary identities. From the fresh, delicate flavors of Jiangnan (Suzhou, Hangzhou) and the robust, wheat-based dishes of the northern plains (Beijing, Shandong), to the fiery ma-la of Sichuan, the sour-spicy complexity of Guizhou, the coastal abundance of Fujian and Teochew, and the highland foraging traditions of Yunnan, each region's food tells a unique story of adaptation. It also explores the impact of migration on groups like the Hakka and Hui, whose foodways became essential for maintaining identity in new lands.

Finally, the book addresses the challenges and transformations brought by modernity, including the impact of famine, revolution, and the shift from traditional hearths to factory canteens and fast food. It concludes by examining the global diaspora of Chinese food in Chinatowns worldwide, where adaptation and innovation have created new culinary forms that negotiate authenticity and identity. Through detailed analysis of historical texts, economic records, and culinary practices, the book ultimately presents recipes not just as instructions, but as "archives" – edible records that encapsulate millennia of Chinese history and cultural evolution.