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Guizhou

Table of Contents

  • Introduction
  • Chapter 1 Early Peoples and Geography
  • Chapter 2 Pre‑Qin Settlements in Guizhou
  • Chapter 3 The Qin and Han Dynasties: Integration into Empire
  • Chapter 4 Ethnic Diversity in the Three Kingdoms Period
  • Chapter 5 Sui and Tang Influence on Frontier Administration
  • Chapter 6 Song Dynasty Trade Routes and Mountain Kingdoms
  • Chapter 7 Yuan Rule and Mongol Garrisons
  • Chapter 8 Ming Colonization and the Tusi System
  • Chapter 9 Qing Consolidation and the Miao Rebellions
  • Chapter 10 Republican Era: Warlords and Reform
  • Chapter 11 The Long March Through Guizhou
  • Chapter 12 Japanese Occupation and Guerrilla Resistance
  • Chapter 13 Land Reform and the Communist Takeover (1949‑1956)
  • Chapter 14 The Great Leap Forward in the Mountains
  • Chapter 15 Cultural Revolution Impact on Ethnic Minorities
  • Chapter 16 Economic Opening and Infrastructure Development (1980s)
  • Chapter 17 Tourism Boom and the Rise of Guiyang
  • Chapter 18 Environmental Conservation and Karst Protection
  • Chapter 19 Modern Education and Ethnic Language Policies
  • Chapter 20 Guizhou’s Role in China’s Belt and Road Initiative
  • Chapter 21 Digital Economy and Big Data Hub in Guiyang
  • Chapter 22 Poverty Alleviation Campaigns (2012‑2020)
  • Chapter 23 Urbanization vs. Rural Traditions
  • Chapter 24 Climate Change Adaptation in the Plateau
  • Chapter 25 Future Prospects: Guizhou in the 21st Century

Introduction

Guizhou is one of China’s least understood and most quietly consequential regions. To many outside observers, it appears as a remote, mountainous backwater, a place of mist‑shrouded karst peaks, terraced fields, and ethnic minority villages. Yet this image, while not entirely wrong, obscures a far more complex reality. Guizhou has long been a crossroads of peoples, empires, and ideas; a testing ground for Chinese statecraft on the frontier; and, in recent decades, a laboratory for some of the country’s most ambitious experiments in development, technology, and social engineering. This book tells the story of that region—not as a footnote to the histories of more famous provinces, but as a central thread in the larger tapestry of Chinese and global history.

The narrative begins with the land itself. Guizhou’s rugged terrain—its limestone plateaus, deep river valleys, and labyrinthine caves—has shaped every aspect of human life there. Geography determined where people could settle, how they farmed, and how easily armies and officials could reach them. It also fostered isolation, which in turn nurtured extraordinary cultural diversity. Long before the name “Guizhou” appeared in imperial records, the region was home to a mosaic of peoples whose languages, rituals, and social structures differed markedly from those of the Central Plains. Understanding Guizhou’s history requires taking these early communities seriously, not as passive recipients of “civilization” from the north and east, but as active agents who negotiated, resisted, and adapted to outside power on their own terms.

From the pre‑Qin era onward, Guizhou was gradually drawn into the orbit of successive Chinese empires. The Qin and Han dynasties extended their reach into the southwest, establishing commanderies and garrisons, yet control remained tenuous. The mountains and forests favored local chieftains and indigenous polities, and imperial authority often existed more on paper than in practice. Over the centuries, the region became a frontier zone where the ambitions of central states collided with the realities of distance, terrain, and ethnic complexity. The tusi system of native chieftains, the campaigns of colonization under the Ming, and the violent consolidation under the Qing all left deep marks on Guizhou’s social fabric. Each wave of integration brought new institutions, migrations, and conflicts, reshaping local identities while also reinforcing a sense of distinctiveness among Guizhou’s many ethnic groups.

The twentieth century brought even more dramatic upheavals. The collapse of the Qing, the chaos of warlord rule, and the rise of competing nationalist and communist movements turned Guizhou into a strategic corridor and a contested space. The Long March, which threaded through the province in 1935, became a foundational myth of the Chinese Communist Party, yet for local communities it meant requisitions, conscription, and disruption. During the war against Japan, Guizhou’s relative remoteness made it a refuge for retreating armies and displaced populations, while guerrilla resistance and collaboration further complicated loyalties. After 1949, the new Communist state launched campaigns of land reform, collectivization, and class struggle that sought to remake Guizhou’s society from the ground up. The Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution hit the province hard, with famine, political persecution, and the suppression of ethnic traditions leaving scars that are still felt today.

In the reform era, Guizhou has undergone a transformation that would have been unimaginable a generation ago. Once synonymous with poverty and isolation, the province has become a showcase for China’s efforts to balance growth, stability, and ethnic policy. Massive infrastructure projects—high‑speed rail, expressways, and bridges spanning dizzying gorges—have knit Guizhou more tightly into the national economy. Guiyang, the provincial capital, has emerged as a national hub for big data and cloud computing, hosting tech giants and government‑backed data centers. Tourism, centered on ethnic culture and karst landscapes, has brought new income but also new pressures on fragile ecosystems and traditional ways of life. At the same time, the state’s poverty alleviation campaigns have relocated millions of rural residents, raising questions about the future of village life, cultural continuity, and the meaning of “development” in a region long defined by its marginality.

This book aims to provide a comprehensive, accessible history of Guizhou from its earliest known peoples to the challenges of the twenty‑first century. It is not a simple chronicle of dynasties and battles, though these are part of the story. It is also an exploration of how geography, ethnicity, and state power have interacted over time to produce a region that is at once peripheral and pivotal. Readers will encounter familiar themes in Chinese history—imperial expansion, revolution, modernization—but seen from an unfamiliar angle. By the end, it should be clear that Guizhou is not merely a remote province waiting to be “brought up to speed” with the rest of China. It is a place with its own rhythms, its own forms of resilience, and its own contributions to the broader currents of history. Understanding Guizhou is essential for understanding China itself.


CHAPTER ONE: Early Peoples and Geography

Guizhou is a land that refuses to be easy. Situated on the eastern edge of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau in southwestern China, the province sits at altitudes ranging from about 200 meters in its low-lying river valleys to over 2,900 meters in the highlands near its western border with Yunnan. Roughly 92.5 percent of its total area is mountainous or hilly, and a substantial portion of its surface is composed of exposed limestone and other soluble rocks, creating one of the most extensive karst landscapes on Earth. Rivers have carved deep gorges through this terrain, drop by drop over millions of years, while underground systems of caves and channels honeycomb the rock beneath one's feet. The result is a region of extraordinary natural beauty and equally extraordinary difficulty for anyone trying to farm, travel, or govern there.

The name "Guizhou" first appeared in the Song Dynasty, probably derived from an older local toponym linked to a hill or settlement. Long before that, the territory now covered by the province lacked any single unifying label in the eyes of outsiders. Ancient Chinese texts refer to the area and its inhabitants in vague and sometimes contradictory terms, grouping them under broad categories such as the "Southwestern Barbarians" or associating them with better-known neighbors like the Baiyue of the southeast or the Dian kingdom of Yunnan. This early vagueness tells us something fundamental: Guizhou was, to the people of the Central Plains and the Yangtze valley, a world apart—valued, when it was valued at all, for its strategic position between the Sichuan basin and the subtropical lowlands of modern Guangxi and Hunan, but rarely understood on its own terms.

The karst topography that dominates Guizhou is the product of hundreds of millions of years of geological history. During the Paleozoic and early Mesozoic eras, the region lay beneath shallow tropical seas, and the accumulated remains of marine organisms formed thick beds of limestone, dolomite, and dolomitic limestone over the ancient basement rocks. Tectonic uplift began raising this seafloor during the Variscan orogeny in the late Paleozoic and continued in episodic fashion through the Mesozoic. But it was the massive Himalayan orogeny, starting around 50 million years ago and continuing today, that really set the stage for Guizhou's modern landscape. As the Indian plate slammed into the Eurasian plate and thrust the Tibetan Plateau skyward, the resulting crustal shortening and uplift affected the entire region to the east. The Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau was elevated, and rivers—chief among them the headwaters and tributaries of the Wujiang, Beipan, Nanpan, Hongshui, and the upper reaches of the Yuan and Liuchong systems—began cutting down into the carbonate rock with determined persistence.

Rainfall, abundant in Guizhou's subtropical monsoon climate, accelerated the process. Weakly acidic water, carrying dissolved carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and soil, seeped into fractures in the limestone, dissolving it gradually. Over time, these fractures widened into fissures, fissures became caves, and some caves collapsed to form dolines and poljes. The surface itself was sculpted into a bewildering array of forms: sharp-crested hills called fenglin, or "forest of peaks," rising like stone sentinels above narrow valleys; clusters of rounded hills called fengcong, or "peak clusters," crowded together as if jostling for space; and vast fields of dissolution-known karren etched into exposed rock faces. By the standards of other landscapes shaped by carbonate rocks, such as those in the Dinaric Alps of the Balkans or the cockpit country of Jamaica, Guizhou's karst is remarkable for its sheer areal extent and its variety.

This geological inheritance has made Guizhou a place of stunning scenery and chronic difficulty. Thin soils develop slowly on limestone and erode quickly once vegetation is removed. Surface water vanishes into sinkholes and subterranean channels, leaving fields parched even in a region with around 1,000 to 1,400 millimeters of annual rainfall. Flash floods in summer alternate with droughts in winter and spring, as rain drains away underground almost as fast as it falls. Building roads and railways across karst terrain requires constant vigilance against subsidence, collapse, and hidden voids beneath the ground. Modern engineers, armed with ground-penetrating radar and reinforced concrete, still find Guizhou a formidable construction site; for premodern peoples, the constraints were far more severe.

Yet the land is not without its compensations. The same rivers that cut deep gorges also carved out flat valley floors and alluvial fans where fertile soils accumulated over millennia. Mountain terraces, painstakingly constructed by human labor, could support wet rice cultivation in the warmer lowlands. Slash-and-burn agriculture, locally known as swidden, took advantage of the forest cover on hillsides, moving from plot to plot as soil fertility declined and recovered. The caves and rock shelters provided immediate refuge and, in some cases, became sites of ritual importance or permanent habitation. Mineral resources—mercury, cinnabar, antimony, bauxite, and coal—lay within the strata, attracting the notice of later dynasties that were perpetually hungry for raw materials.

The climate of Guizhou is shaped by its position on the plateau and by the monsoon circulation that dominates East Asian weather patterns. Summers are warm and humid, with prevailing winds from the southeast and southwest bringing moisture from the Pacific and Indian Oceans. Winters are cool to cold at higher elevations, with occasional frost and freezing rain, but genuine deep freezes are rare except in the loftiest areas. The famous epithet "no three days of clear sky without rain" (bu san ri qing), often attached to Guizhou in Chinese popular sayings, exaggerates the reality somewhat, but the province receives more cloudy days and more light to moderate precipitation events per year than most of lowland southern China. Mist is common on the karst peaks and ridges, lending the landscape an otherworldly quality that has inspired poets and painters for centuries.

Fog and cloud may frustrate farmers, but they also moderate temperatures and reduce evaporation, helping to maintain stream flow during drier periods. The vegetation of Guizhou reflects this moisture. At lower elevations and in sheltered valleys, broadleaf evergreen and mixed deciduous-evergreen forests once predominated, though much of this original cover has been cleared and regrown as secondary forest over the centuries. Higher up, the forests transition to montane evergreen broadleaf and mixed coniferous-broadleaf stands, with bamboo thickets forming a conspicuous understory in many areas. The biodiversity of these forests is high, though less celebrated than that of neighboring Yunnan. Rare and endemic species—the Guizhou snub-nosed monkey, certain orchids and rhododendrons, a host of amphibians adapted to karst springs and streams—call the province home, even as habitat loss has placed many of them under threat.

The archaeological record pushes the human story in Guizhou deep into prehistory. Stone tools and animal bones from cave sites such as Xianrendong (Cave of the Immortals), on the middle reaches of the Qingshui River in eastern Guizhou, testify to human presence in the late Paleolithic, at least 20,000 to 30,000 years ago, and possibly earlier. These early inhabitants were likely Homo sapiens, part of the wave of modern humans that spread across East Asia during and after the Last Glacial Maximum. The tools they left behind—scrapers, points, choppers, and flakes—are not unlike those found at contemporary sites across southern China and mainland Southeast Asia, suggesting connections or at least parallel adaptations to forest and cave environments.

As the climate warmed and became wetter in the early Holocene, roughly 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, the population of southern China is thought to have grown, and the archaeological horizons become somewhat richer. Guizhou's Neolithic assemblages, though less extensively studied than those of the Yangtze valley or the Lower Pearl River region, show evidence of polished stone tools, pottery, and in some places the beginnings of plant cultivation. Excavations at sites such as Yelang-related cave and river terrace settlements have yielded sherds of cord-marked and incised pottery, along with ground stone adzes and chipped implements typical of a mixed foraging and early farming economy. The precise dating of many of these sites remains provisional due to the limited number of radiocarbon dates available, but a general picture is emerging of small, dispersed communities occupying river valleys and cave mouths, exploiting wild game, fish, shellfish, and forest products, while gradually bringing millet, and later rice, into cultivation.

The Neolithic cultures of Guizhou did not exist in isolation. To the north, along the Yangtze, the great rice-farming settlements of the Pengtoushan and later Daxi cultures were taking shape, eventually feeding into the complex polities of the Three Gorges and the middle Yangtze. To the east and southeast, the lower Yangtze and coastal Fujian-Zhejiang region saw the rise of equally sophisticated rice-based societies, some of which would eventually produce the Liangzhu culture and its spectacular jade ritual objects. To the south and west, the Red River valley of northern Vietnam and the foothills of the eastern Himalayas hosted their own early agricultural and bronze-using communities. Guizhou, perched on the limestone plateau among these nodal points, received influences from several directions but also developed in ways that reflected its particular environment.

During the Shang Dynasty, centered in the middle and lower Yellow River valley from roughly the sixteenth to the eleventh century BCE, bronze ritual technology reached an extraordinary level of sophistication in the Central Plains. These Shang bronzes—elaborately cast vessels used in ancestral rites and feasting—have been found at sites across a wide swathe of eastern and central China, but they thin out rapidly as one moves into the rugged interior. Guizhou has yielded few, if any, diagnostically Shang artifacts. By contrast, Yunnan, just to the west, has produced bronzes with strong local stylistic features alongside some elements influenced by Shang and later Zhou traditions. This disparity hints at the degree of difficulty involved in moving goods, ideas, and people across the karst landscape. A journey from the nearest Shang outpost to what is now Guizhou would have required traversing mountain passes, gorges, and malarial lowlands, following river valleys that twist and turn through narrow defiles.

The Zhou Dynasty, which succeeded the Shang around 1046 BCE, expanded the zone of bronze-using, agriculture-based states southward and eastward, but its reach into Guizhou remained limited. Historical texts from the later Zhou period, including the Zuozhuan and the Guoyu, mention various non-Chinese peoples living in the southwest, but the descriptions are vague and often tinged with the cultural chauvinism of the Central Plains literati. Names such as the Dian, the Yelang, and the Qiong appear in these accounts, sometimes as polities with which the Zhou or its successor states had diplomatic or military contact, sometimes as shadowy groups known only by rumor. The precise locations and ethnic affiliations of these entities remain subjects of scholarly debate, but it is clear that by the late first millennium BCE, the region that would become Guizhou was home to multiple distinct communities, some of which had developed their own forms of social hierarchy, ritual practice, and material culture.

The most famous of these early polities, at least in later Chinese historiography, is Yelang. According to the Shiji, the great historical work of Sima Qian completed around 94 BCE, Yelang was a significant power in the southwest during the third and second centuries BCE, rivaling the Dian kingdom of Yunnan and maintaining a degree of independence from the Han Dynasty until its eventual conquest. The Shiji recounts a story, probably embellished, in which the Han envoy Tang Meng encountered the Yelang ruler, who naively asked whether his kingdom was as large as Han—a tale that gave rise to the Chinese idiom "Yelang zida," meaning "Yelang thinks too highly of itself," used to mock parochial arrogance. The actual territory of Yelang is uncertain, but most scholars place its core in what is now western Guizhou, possibly extending into eastern Yunnan and southern Sichuan.

Archaeological work at sites such as Heilingpu and other burial complexes in western Guizhou has uncovered bronze weapons, tools, and ornaments that are broadly consistent with a Yelang cultural sphere. These artifacts include distinctive bronze axes with crescent-shaped blades, short swords, and horse-gear, as well as cowrie shells that must have arrived through long-distance trade networks stretching to the Indian Ocean coast. The presence of such items indicates that Yelang was not an isolated backwater but a node in a web of exchange linking the highlands of southwestern China to the lowlands of Southeast Asia and beyond. The people of Yelang likely spoke a language belonging to the Tibeto-Burman or possibly the Tai-Kadai family, though the linguistic evidence is too sparse to be certain.

Other groups inhabited the eastern and central parts of modern Guizhou during the late pre-Qin period. The ancestors of today's Miao (Hmong), Yao (Mien), Bouyei (Buyi), Dong (Kam), and Tujia peoples, among others, are generally thought to have been present in the region by this time, though pinning down exact dates and migration routes is fraught with difficulty. Chinese historical sources tend to lump these diverse communities under broad and often pejorative labels—"Miao-Man," "Lao," "Liao"—that obscure more than they reveal. Modern ethnolinguistic research, combined with oral traditions and material culture studies, suggests a complex picture of overlapping territories, shifting alliances, and gradual differentiation over centuries.

The Miao, for instance, are one of the largest and most widely dispersed ethnic minority groups in southern China, with communities in Guizhou, Hunan, Yunnan, Sichuan, Guangxi, and beyond, as well as in Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar. Their languages belong to the Hmongic branch of the Hmong-Mien family, which is not closely related to Chinese, Tibeto-Burman, or Tai-Kadai. Oral histories among the Miao often speak of an ancient homeland in the Yellow River region or the middle Yangtze, followed by a long southward migration driven by warfare and displacement. Some scholars have linked these narratives to the conflicts between early Chinese states and non-Chinese peoples during the Shang and Zhou periods, but the evidence is largely circumstantial. What is clear is that by the Han Dynasty, Miao-speaking communities were well established in the mountains and valleys of Guizhou, practicing a mix of swidden agriculture, hunting, and gathering.

The Bouyei, whose language belongs to the Tai-Kadai family and is closely related to Thai and Zhuang, are concentrated in southern and southwestern Guizhou, particularly in the valleys of the Hongshui and Nanpan rivers. Their traditional economy centered on wet rice cultivation in the lowlands, supplemented by fishing and the gathering of forest products. The Dong, another significant group, are known for their remarkable wooden architecture—covered bridges (wind-and-rain bridges) and drum towers built without nails—and for their polyphonic choral singing, which has attracted the attention of ethnomusicologists worldwide. The Dong are found primarily in southeastern Guizhou, in the borderlands with Hunan and Guangxi, where their villages cluster along river courses in the foothills.

The Tujia, whose linguistic affiliation is debated but who are often classified as Tibeto-Burman speakers, inhabit the northeastern corner of Guizhou, adjacent to their larger population centers in western Hunan and Hubei. Their traditional territory straddles the Wuling Mountains, a rugged range that forms a natural barrier between the middle Yangtze lowlands and the Guizhou plateau. The Tujia have a rich tradition of handicrafts, including brocade weaving, and their religious practices blend animism, ancestor worship, and elements of Daoism and Buddhism absorbed over centuries of contact with Han Chinese culture.

These ethnic labels, while useful for modern administrative and analytical purposes, should not be taken as fixed or primordial identities. The boundaries between groups have always been fluid, with intermarriage, bilingualism, and cultural borrowing blurring the lines. A village that today identifies as Miao might, a few centuries ago, have been classified as Yao or simply as "local people" by outside observers. The Chinese state's efforts to categorize and enumerate its ethnic minorities, which intensified during the Republican period and especially after 1949, imposed a degree of rigidity on what had been a much more flexible social landscape. Nevertheless, the broad outlines of Guizhou's ethnic mosaic were in place well before the first imperial armies arrived.

The physical environment shaped not only the economic strategies of these early peoples but also their social organization and worldview. In a landscape where arable land was scarce and scattered, large, centralized polities were difficult to sustain. Instead, political authority tended to be localized, vested in village headmen, lineage elders, or ritual specialists whose power rested on personal charisma, control of trade routes, or the ability to mediate with the spirit world. The karst landscape itself was imbued with spiritual significance. Caves, springs, unusual rock formations, and ancient trees were often regarded as the abodes of spirits or the sites of mythic events. Shamans and mediums played important roles in community life, conducting rituals to ensure good harvests, cure illness, and maintain harmony between the human and supernatural realms.

Agriculture in pre-imperial Guizhou was diverse and adapted to local conditions. In the warmer, lower valleys, wet rice cultivation was practiced where water supply and flat land permitted. Terraces were constructed along hillsides, sometimes on a small scale, sometimes in elaborate cascades that transformed entire slopes into productive fields. Millet, both foxtail and broomcorn varieties, was grown on drier upland plots, as were buckwheat, barley, and various legumes. Swidden agriculture, involving the clearing and burning of forest patches, planting for a few years, and then allowing the land to revert to forest for a fallow period, was widespread in the hills. This system, often disparaged by lowland Chinese observers as primitive, was in fact a rational adaptation to the constraints of karst terrain, where thin soils and rapid drainage made permanent, intensive cultivation difficult without significant labor investment.

Hunting and gathering remained important supplements to farming. The forests of Guizhou harbored deer, wild boar, monkeys, and a variety of smaller game, while rivers and streams provided fish and freshwater shellfish. Wild plants—bamboo shoots, mushrooms, tubers, medicinal herbs, and fruits—were collected from the forest and formed a significant part of the diet, especially in lean years. The knowledge of local flora and fauna, accumulated over generations and transmitted orally, constituted a sophisticated body of ecological understanding that outsiders rarely appreciated.

Trade, though limited in volume by the difficulty of transport, connected Guizhou's communities to the wider world. Salt, a necessity that the karst plateau could not produce locally, was one of the most important trade goods, brought in from Sichuan's brine wells or from coastal sources via river routes. Metals—bronze, iron, and later steel—were also imported, as Guizhou's own metalworking capacity was modest before the Han period. In exchange, the highlands offered forest products such as lacquer, medicinal plants, timber, and animal hides, as well as mercury and cinnabar, the bright red ore of mercury that was prized for its use in pigments, alchemy, and medicine. Cowrie shells, which served as a form of currency in parts of southern China and Southeast Asia, have been found in Guizhou burials, hinting at connections to trade networks that stretched far to the south and west.

The coming of the Qin Dynasty in the late third century BCE marked a turning point in Guizhou's relationship with the Chinese world. Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor, unified the warring states of the Central Plains and embarked on an ambitious program of expansion and standardization. His armies pushed south into the lands of the Baiyue, east into the Korean peninsula, and west into the highlands of what is now Sichuan and Yunnan. The famous Lingqu Canal, linking the Xiang and Li rivers, was constructed to facilitate the movement of troops and supplies into the south. While the Qin's direct control over Guizhou was minimal, the infrastructure projects and military campaigns of this period set the stage for the more sustained efforts of the Han Dynasty that followed.

The Han Dynasty, which ruled China from 206 BCE to 220 CE, represents the first major period of imperial engagement with Guizhou. Han armies and administrators pushed into the southwest, establishing commanderies and counties, building roads, and attempting to bring local chieftains under imperial authority. The conquest of Yelang, traditionally dated to 111 BCE during the reign of Emperor Wu, was a significant milestone, though the reality on the ground was more complex than the official annals suggest. Imperial control was strongest along the main river valleys and trade routes and weakest in the remote uplands, where local leaders retained considerable autonomy.

The interaction between Han Chinese settlers and indigenous peoples during this period set patterns that would recur throughout Guizhou's history. Migration, both voluntary and state-sponsored, brought new agricultural techniques, languages, and cultural practices into the region. At the same time, indigenous communities adapted, resisted, and selectively adopted elements of Han culture. The result was not a simple process of "sinicization" but a complex, ongoing negotiation of identity and power that played out differently in different places and at different times.

The geography of Guizhou—its mountains, rivers, caves, and karst formations—was not merely a backdrop to these human dramas but an active participant. It channeled the movement of armies and traders, determined where settlements could flourish and where they would struggle, and shaped the mental maps of the people who lived there. To understand the history of Guizhou, one must first understand the land itself: its beauty, its harshness, and its stubborn refusal to be easily tamed. The early peoples who made their home on the limestone plateau did so not in spite of these challenges but in creative response to them, building lives and cultures that were as varied and intricate as the landscape itself. Their story, and the story of all who followed, begins here, among the peaks and valleys of one of China's most remarkable provinces.


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