Off the Beaten Track in North America

• Introduction

• Chapter 1 The Whispering Dunes of Colorado

• Chapter 2 The Lost City of Nevada's Valley of Fire

• Chapter 3 The Crystal Caves of Arkansas

• Chapter 4 The Ghost Town of Bodie, California

• Chapter 5 The Sunken Forest of Oregon's Crater Lake

• Chapter 6 The Musical Road of New Mexico

• Chapter 7 The Petrified Forest of Mississippi

• Chapter 8 The Ice Caves of Michigan's Upper Peninsula

• Chapter 9 The Wild Horses of Assateague Island, Maryland & Virginia

• Chapter 10 The Mysterious Mima Mounds of Washington

• Chapter 11 The Sea Caves of the Apostle Islands, Wisconsin

• Chapter 12 The Abandoned Mining Town of Kennecott, Alaska

• Chapter 13 The Dinosaur Tracks of Texas' Paluxy River

• Chapter 14 The Hidden Waterfalls of Tennessee's Cumberland Plateau

• Chapter 15 The Volcanic Wonderland of Lassen Volcanic National Park, California

• Chapter 16 The Colorful Badlands of South Dakota

• Chapter 17 The Natural Bridge of Virginia

• Chapter 18 The Ancient Cliff Dwellings of Mesa Verde, Colorado

• Chapter 19 The Enchanting Gardens of Munsinger Clemens, Minnesota

• Chapter 20 The Glass Beach of Fort Bragg, California

• Chapter 21 The Unexplored Depths of Mammoth Cave, Kentucky

• Chapter 22 The Starry Skies of Cherry Springs State Park, Pennsylvania

• Chapter 23 The Secret Beaches of the Outer Banks, North Carolina

• Chapter 24 The Geothermal Pools of Yellowstone's Backcountry

• Chapter 25 The Labyrinthine Canyons of Utah's Bryce Canyon

North America, a continent of breathtaking diversity, is a land of towering mountains, vast plains, arid deserts, and lush forests. It's a place where nature's artistry is on full display, from the fiery hues of the Grand Canyon to the serene beauty of the Great Lakes. While iconic landmarks like the Statue of Liberty and Niagara Falls draw millions of visitors each year, there's a whole other side to North America that often goes unnoticed. This is the realm of the hidden, the overlooked, and the truly unique; the places that lie off the beaten track. In 'Off the Beaten Track in North America', we will explore the continent's hidden gems - the destinations that offer a different kind of adventure.

These are the places where you can escape the crowds and immerse yourself in the raw beauty of the natural world, or delve into the forgotten corners of history. It is a journey through time and across landscapes, uncovering the stories etched into stone, whispered by the wind, and reflected in the still waters of remote lakes. This book is your guide to 25 such places, each one a testament to the continent's remarkable diversity and the spirit of exploration that lies within us all. It is an invitation to venture beyond the familiar, to seek out the extraordinary, and to discover the hidden wonders that await.

In the chapters that follow, we will traverse the length and breadth of North America. From the whispering dunes of Colorado to the sunken forest of Oregon's Crater Lake, each destination has been chosen for its unique character and the sense of wonder it inspires. We will encounter geological marvels shaped by millennia of natural forces, explore the remnants of ancient civilizations and ghost towns, and witness the vibrant life that thrives in some of the most unexpected places. This is not just a travel guide, but a celebration of the lesser-known, the undiscovered, and the truly unique aspects of North America.

Each chapter is a standalone adventure, offering a deep dive into the history, geography, and special allure of each location. You will learn about the geological processes that created the crystal caves of Arkansas, the cultural significance of the ancient cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde, and the eerie beauty of the abandoned mining town of Kennecott, Alaska. We will also explore the natural wonders that make these places so special, from the musical road of New Mexico to the wild horses of Assateague Island. Along the way, you will find practical tips and insights to help you plan your own off-the-beaten-track adventures.

Whether you are an avid hiker, a history buff, a nature lover, or simply someone looking for a unique travel experience, this book offers something for everyone. It is a reminder that adventure is not just about visiting famous landmarks, but about exploring the unknown, embracing the unexpected, and discovering the hidden gems that make North America such a fascinating and diverse continent. It is a call to step off the well-trodden path and embark on a journey of discovery, to explore the places that most people only dream of.

The journey begins in the heart of Colorado, where the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve harbors a secret – the Medano Creek, a ephemeral stream that creates a unique phenomenon known as 'surge flow'. This natural spectacle, where waves of water rhythmically pulse down the creek bed, is just the first of many wonders we will encounter. From there, we venture into the Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada, home to ancient petroglyphs and stunning sandstone formations that tell a story of a time long past. These are places where history and nature intertwine, offering a glimpse into the past and a chance to connect with the natural world in a profound way.

Our journey continues through the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, where the Blanchard Springs Caverns reveal a subterranean world of stunning beauty. Here, stalactites and stalagmites create an otherworldly landscape, a testament to the slow, patient work of nature. Further west, in the high desert of California, lies the ghost town of Bodie. Once a bustling gold-mining town, Bodie now stands frozen in time, its weathered buildings and abandoned streets a poignant reminder of the boom-and-bust cycles that shaped the American West. This is the power of off-the-beaten-track travel: the ability to step back in time and experience history firsthand.

In the Pacific Northwest, we delve into the depths of Crater Lake National Park, where the sunken forest of Wizard Island offers a unique underwater landscape for divers and snorkelers to explore. This submerged forest, a relic of the volcanic eruption that formed the lake, is a hauntingly beautiful reminder of the forces that have shaped this continent. Back on land, we journey along the Musical Road in New Mexico, a stretch of highway engineered to play a tune when driven over at a certain speed. This quirky attraction is a testament to human ingenuity and our desire to create something unique and memorable.

Our exploration takes us south to Mississippi, where the Petrified Forest National Monument reveals a landscape of ancient trees turned to stone. These fossilized remnants of a once-thriving forest offer a glimpse into a prehistoric world, a time when giants roamed the earth. In Michigan's Upper Peninsula, we venture into the Eben Ice Caves, where winter's icy grip transforms waterfalls into stunning ice formations. These natural sculptures, formed by the freezing and thawing of water, are a testament to the power and beauty of the changing seasons.

On the East Coast, we encounter the wild horses of Assateague Island, a barrier island shared by Maryland and Virginia. These feral horses, believed to be descendants of animals that survived a shipwreck, roam freely across the island's beaches and marshes, a symbol of resilience and adaptation. In Washington State, we explore the mysterious Mima Mounds, a landscape of evenly spaced, dome-shaped hills that have puzzled scientists for decades. These enigmatic formations, thought to be the work of pocket gophers or perhaps a result of seismic activity, are a reminder of the many mysteries that still exist in the natural world.

Our journey through North America's hidden gems continues in Wisconsin, where the sea caves of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore offer a stunning display of sandstone cliffs, arches, and caves, sculpted by the relentless waves of Lake Superior. In Alaska, we delve into the history of the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark, an abandoned copper mining town that once thrived in the remote wilderness. These are places that tell stories of human endeavor, of boom and bust, of the challenges and rewards of living in some of the most remote and rugged landscapes on the continent.

In Texas, we walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs at Dinosaur Valley State Park, where fossilized tracks preserved in the bed of the Paluxy River offer a tangible connection to these ancient creatures. In Tennessee, we discover the hidden waterfalls of the Cumberland Plateau, cascading down into deep gorges and creating a tranquil oasis in the heart of the wilderness. These natural wonders are a reminder of the power of water to shape the landscape, creating beauty and serenity in its wake. Our journey takes us to California's Lassen Volcanic National Park, a geothermal wonderland of bubbling mud pots, steaming fumaroles, and colorful hot springs.

We venture into the Badlands National Park of South Dakota, a landscape of eroded rock formations that reveal a rainbow of colors, a testament to the millions of years of geological history etched into the earth. In Virginia, we marvel at the Natural Bridge, a towering limestone arch that has inspired awe and wonder for centuries. These natural wonders, shaped by the forces of erosion and time, offer a glimpse into the deep history of the continent and the power of nature to create breathtaking landscapes.

In Minnesota, we stroll through the enchanting Munsinger Clemens Gardens, a floral paradise on the banks of the Mississippi River. These meticulously designed gardens, a blend of formal and informal styles, offer a tranquil retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Our journey continues to California's Fort Bragg, where the Glass Beach reveals a shoreline covered in smooth, colorful sea glass, a testament to the transformative power of the ocean. These are places where human activity has, in some cases, inadvertently created something beautiful and unique.

Our exploration of North America's hidden gems culminates in the depths of Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky, where the world's longest known cave system offers a subterranean adventure like no other. In Pennsylvania, we gaze up at the star-studded sky of Cherry Springs State Park, one of the best places in the eastern United States for stargazing. These are places that offer a sense of wonder and awe, a chance to connect with the vastness of the universe and the depths of the earth. Finally, we will visit the Outer Banks of North Carolina with its secret beaches, Yellowstone's backcountry geothermal pools, and the labyrinthine canyons of Utah's Bryce Canyon.

This book is a celebration of the unexpected, the overlooked, and the truly unique. It's an invitation to explore the hidden corners of North America, to discover the places that lie off the beaten track, and to experience the continent in a whole new way. As you turn these pages, prepare to be amazed, inspired, and perhaps even a little bit changed by the wonders that await. The journey begins now, and the adventure is yours to discover. So pack your bags, lace up your hiking boots, and get ready to explore the hidden gems of North America.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, nestled in the heart of southern Colorado, is a place of stark beauty and surprising contrasts. Here, the tallest sand dunes in North America rise against the backdrop of the rugged Sangre de Cristo Mountains, creating a landscape that feels both otherworldly and deeply rooted in the American West. Most visitors come to marvel at the sheer scale of the dunes, to hike their undulating crests, or to sled down their sandy slopes. But hidden within this vast expanse of sand lies a secret, a ephemeral phenomenon that few have witnessed: the "surge flow" of Medano Creek.

Medano Creek is a unique waterway that flows along the eastern edge of the dunefield. Unlike most creeks, which follow a defined channel, Medano Creek is constantly shifting, its path determined by the ever-changing contours of the sand. The creek is fed by snowmelt from the surrounding mountains, and its flow is highly seasonal, typically peaking in late spring and early summer. As the water makes its way across the sand, it creates a series of small, temporary dams, which then break, releasing the water in rhythmic pulses known as "surge flow." These surges can create waves up to 20 inches high, a miniature version of the ocean's surf, right here in the middle of a desert.

The phenomenon of surge flow is not unique to Medano Creek, but it is particularly pronounced here due to the specific combination of factors. The large volume of sand, the steep gradient of the creek bed, and the seasonal nature of the water flow all contribute to the creation of these unique waves. The process begins when the water encounters a slight depression in the sand. As the water fills the depression, it creates a small pool, held back by the surrounding sand. This pool continues to grow until the pressure of the water becomes too great, causing the sand dam to breach.

When the dam breaks, the water rushes out in a sudden surge, creating a wave that travels downstream. This wave then encounters another depression, and the process repeats itself, creating a series of surges that can continue for miles. The frequency and intensity of the surges depend on a variety of factors, including the volume of water, the steepness of the creek bed, and the consistency of the sand. On a typical day during peak flow, surges can occur every 20 to 60 seconds, creating a mesmerizing rhythm that has captivated visitors for centuries.

The surge flow of Medano Creek is not just a fascinating natural phenomenon; it also plays a crucial role in the ecology of the dunefield. The constant movement of the water helps to redistribute sand, preventing the dunes from becoming too stable and allowing them to maintain their characteristic shapes. The surges also transport seeds and other organic matter, helping to support the diverse plant and animal life that thrives in this seemingly barren landscape. While the dunes may appear to be a lifeless desert, they are actually home to a wide variety of species, each adapted to the unique challenges of this environment.

Pocket gophers and kangaroo rats burrow beneath the sand, creating intricate tunnel systems that help to aerate the soil and provide shelter from the harsh sun. These small mammals are a vital food source for predators like coyotes, foxes, and the occasional bobcat. Birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles, soar overhead, their keen eyes scanning the landscape for any sign of movement. In the spring and summer, wildflowers add splashes of color to the otherwise monochromatic landscape, their vibrant blooms attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies.

The surge flow of Medano Creek also creates a unique habitat for aquatic life. The temporary pools that form between surges provide refuge for a variety of insects, including water striders, beetles, and dragonflies. These insects, in turn, attract larger predators, such as frogs, toads, and even the occasional snake. The presence of water in this arid environment is a lifeline for many species, and the surge flow of Medano Creek plays a vital role in ensuring their survival. The creek is a testament to the interconnectedness of ecosystems, demonstrating how even the most seemingly disparate elements can work together to create a thriving, dynamic environment.

To witness the surge flow of Medano Creek, visitors must time their visit carefully. The best time to experience this phenomenon is typically in late May or early June, when the snowmelt from the mountains is at its peak. However, the exact timing can vary from year to year, depending on the amount of snowfall and the rate of melt. The National Park Service provides regular updates on the creek's flow, and it's a good idea to check their website or call the visitor center before making the trip. It is also worth noting that the creek's flow can be affected by weather conditions, such as rain or strong winds, so it's important to be prepared for changing conditions.

Once you arrive at the park, the best way to experience the surge flow is to hike along the creek bed. There are no designated trails, but the sand is generally firm enough to walk on, and the creek is shallow enough to wade across in most places. As you walk, keep an eye out for the telltale signs of surge flow: small pools of water forming and then suddenly releasing, creating waves that ripple across the sand. The experience is both mesmerizing and strangely calming, a reminder of the power and beauty of the natural world.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is not just a place of natural wonder; it also holds a rich cultural history. The area has been inhabited for thousands of years, first by nomadic hunter-gatherer tribes and later by more settled agricultural communities. The Ute people, who have lived in the region for centuries, consider the dunes to be a sacred place, a source of spiritual power and healing. They have traditional stories about the creation of the dunes, attributing their formation to the actions of powerful spirits.

In the 19th century, the area became a crossroads for explorers, traders, and settlers traveling along the Old Spanish Trail. This historic route, which connected Santa Fe, New Mexico, with Los Angeles, California, passed just south of the dunes. The trail was a vital artery of commerce and cultural exchange, and it played a significant role in the history of the American Southwest. Today, remnants of the trail can still be seen in the park, offering a glimpse into the past and a reminder of the area's long history of human activity.

The Great Sand Dunes were first designated as a national monument in 1932, in recognition of their unique geological and ecological significance. In 2004, the area was redesignated as a national park and preserve, further expanding its boundaries and providing additional protection for the surrounding landscape. The park now encompasses over 107,000 acres, including not only the dunefield but also a diverse range of habitats, from alpine tundra to montane forests. This expansion has helped to ensure the long-term health of the ecosystem, providing a haven for wildlife and preserving the area's natural beauty for future generations.

In addition to the surge flow of Medano Creek, the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve offers a wide range of recreational opportunities. Hiking is one of the most popular activities, with trails ranging from easy strolls along the base of the dunes to challenging climbs to the summit of High Dune, the tallest dune in the park. The views from the top are truly spectacular, offering a panoramic vista of the entire dunefield, the surrounding mountains, and the vast expanse of the San Luis Valley.

Sandboarding and sand sledding are also popular activities, particularly among younger visitors. The park allows these activities on any of the dunes, as long as they are not vegetated. It's a thrilling experience to slide down the steep slopes of the dunes, feeling the wind in your hair and the sand beneath your feet. The park also offers opportunities for camping, backpacking, horseback riding, and wildlife viewing. There are several designated campgrounds within the park, as well as backcountry campsites for those who prefer a more remote experience.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is a place of contrasts, where the stark beauty of the desert meets the lush greenery of the mountains. It's a place where you can experience the thrill of adventure and the serenity of solitude, often within the same day. Whether you come to witness the unique phenomenon of Medano Creek's surge flow, to hike among the towering dunes, or simply to enjoy the peace and quiet of the natural world, the Great Sand Dunes offers an unforgettable experience. This is a place that reminds us of the power and beauty of the natural world, and the importance of preserving these special places for future generations.

As the sun sets over the Great Sand Dunes, casting long shadows across the sand, it's easy to understand why this place has captivated people for centuries. The silence of the desert, broken only by the whisper of the wind, creates a sense of peace and tranquility that is hard to find in today's busy world. It's a place where you can truly connect with nature, where you can feel the vastness of the landscape and the smallness of your own place within it. The surge flow of Medano Creek, a fleeting phenomenon in this timeless landscape, serves as a reminder of the constant change and renewal that are the hallmarks of the natural world.

The dunes themselves are a testament to this constant change. Formed over thousands of years by the relentless action of wind and water, they are constantly shifting, their shapes and sizes changing with each passing storm. The sand, carried by the wind from the distant San Juan Mountains, is deposited here in the San Luis Valley, trapped by the natural barrier of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It's a process that has been going on for millennia, and it will continue for millennia to come, a slow, patient dance between the elements.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is a place that challenges our perceptions of what a desert can be. It's not just a barren wasteland, but a vibrant ecosystem, teeming with life. It's a place where you can find beauty in the most unexpected places, where the smallest details can reveal the greatest wonders. The surge flow of Medano Creek is just one example of the many hidden gems that await those who venture off the beaten track in North America. It's a reminder that there is always more to discover, more to explore, and more to appreciate in the world around us. So, as you plan your next adventure, consider a visit to this unique corner of Colorado, where the whispering dunes and the surging creek offer a glimpse into the heart of the American West.