Off the Beaten Track in China

• Introduction

• Chapter 1 Shaxi, Yunnan: A Tea Horse Road Time Capsule

• Chapter 2 Tongli, Jiangsu: The Venice of the East, Minus the Crowds

• Chapter 3 Pingyao, Shanxi: Ancient Walls and Financial History

• Chapter 4 Kashgar, Xinjiang: A Silk Road Oasis at the Edge of the World

• Chapter 5 Fenghuang, Hunan: A Phoenix Rising from the Mist

• Chapter 6 Wuyuan, Jiangxi: China's Most Beautiful Countryside

• Chapter 7 Zhaoxing, Guizhou: Dong Minority Culture in Harmony with Nature

• Chapter 8 Heshun, Yunnan: A Village of Libraries and Transnational Heritage

• Chapter 9 Hongcun, Anhui: Inspiration for Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon

• Chapter 10 Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu: Mystical Monasteries and Grasslands

• Chapter 11 Yubeng, Yunnan: A Hiking Paradise at the Foot of Sacred Meili Snow Mountain

• Chapter 12 Datong, Shanxi: Grottoes, Hanging Monasteries, and Volcanic Landscapes

• Chapter 13 Zhangye, Gansu: Rainbow Mountains and Martian Terrains

• Chapter 14 Harbin, Heilongjiang: Ice City and Russian Architectural Legacy

• Chapter 15 Jingdezhen, Jiangxi: The Porcelain Capital Through the Ages

• Chapter 16 Xiamen, Fujian: Coastal Charm and Colonial History on Gulangyu Island

• Chapter 17 Dunhuang, Gansu: Echoes of Buddhism in the Mogao Caves

• Chapter 18 Tulou Roundhouses of Fujian: Unique Hakka Clan Dwellings

• Chapter 19 Dali, Yunnan: Bai Culture, Erhai Lake, and Hippie Vibes

• Chapter 20 Weishan, Yunnan: Ancient Architecture and the Birthplace of the Nanzhao Kingdom

• Chapter 21 Lijiang, Yunnan: Naxi Culture and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

• Chapter 22 Guilin, Guangxi: Karst Landscapes and the Li River Cruise

• Chapter 23 Yangshuo, Guangxi: Biking and Rock Climbing in a Surreal Setting

• Chapter 24 Chengdu, Sichuan: Pandas, Tea Houses, and Spicy Food

• Chapter 25 Jiuzhaigou, Sichuan: Fairytale Lakes and Waterfalls

China. The very name conjures up images of ancient wonders, bustling metropolises, and a civilization that has thrived for millennia. Most travelers gravitate towards the well-trodden paths – the Great Wall snaking across mountains, the Forbidden City's imperial grandeur, the vibrant street life of Shanghai. These iconic destinations undoubtedly offer a glimpse into China's rich tapestry, but they represent only a fraction of the Middle Kingdom's true allure. Beyond the familiar lies a hidden China, a realm of undiscovered cities, each with its own unique story waiting to be unveiled.

This book is your passport to that hidden China. It is a journey off the beaten track, an exploration of 25 remarkable cities that have, for the most part, escaped the global spotlight. These are not your typical tourist hotspots. They are places where ancient traditions still pulse with life, where breathtaking landscapes remain untamed, and where the soul of China reveals itself in its most authentic form. These are cities, towns, and villages where you will likely find yourself to be the only foreigner, or one of a very select few.

These 25 destinations span the vast expanse of China, from the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas to the sun-drenched shores of the South China Sea. In each location, we will delve into the heart of the local culture, uncover historical treasures, and experience the warmth of communities that have preserved their unique identities through the ages. In the southwestern province of Yunnan, we will visit the ancient town of Shaxi and walk in the footsteps of traders who once traversed the treacherous Tea Horse Road, an ancient trade route that connected Yunnan with Tibet and beyond.

Further east, in the province of Jiangsu, we'll discover Tongli, a water town often referred to as the "Venice of the East." Here, a labyrinth of canals, ancient bridges, and traditional architecture awaits, offering a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of modern China. As we move inland to Shanxi province, the ancient walled city of Pingyao will transport us back to a time when it was a major financial center of the Qing Dynasty. We will then journey to the far western reaches of China, to the city of Kashgar in Xinjiang. This Silk Road oasis is a melting pot of cultures, where the vibrant Uighur traditions blend seamlessly with the influences of Central Asia.

In the mountainous province of Hunan, we'll encounter Fenghuang, a town that seems to have emerged from a Chinese watercolor painting, with its stilted houses perched precariously over the Tuojiang River. Our journey will also take us to Wuyuan in Jiangxi province, often hailed as "China's most beautiful countryside," where rolling hills, ancient villages, and vibrant fields of rapeseed flowers create a picture-perfect landscape. In Guizhou province, we'll immerse ourselves in the vibrant culture of the Dong ethnic minority in Zhaoxing, a town renowned for its impressive drum towers and wind-and-rain bridges.

We'll then return to Yunnan to visit Heshun, a village with a surprisingly cosmopolitan history, shaped by its overseas Chinese community. Nearby, the ancient village of Hongcun, with its stunning traditional architecture, served as the backdrop for the Oscar-winning film "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon." Our adventure will also take us to the Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Gansu province, where we'll explore mystical monasteries and vast grasslands, experiencing the unique culture of Tibetan Buddhism.

We'll then hike to the remote village of Yubeng in Yunnan, nestled at the foot of the sacred Meili Snow Mountain, a destination that offers unparalleled trekking opportunities and spiritual experiences. In Shanxi province, we'll marvel at the Yungang Grottoes near Datong, a UNESCO World Heritage site containing thousands of Buddhist statues carved into sandstone cliffs, along with the nearby Hanging Monastery, perched precariously on a cliff face. The city of Datong also holds the remnants of an ancient volcanic landscape that is worth exploring.

Zhangye, also in Gansu province, is home to the mesmerizing Danxia Landform, a geological wonder of rainbow-colored mountains that look like they belong on another planet. Further north, in Heilongjiang province, the city of Harbin will enchant us with its annual Ice and Snow Festival, a dazzling display of ice sculptures and winter activities, along with the city's unique Russian architectural heritage. We'll then travel to Jingdezhen in Jiangxi province, the historical heart of China's porcelain production, where we'll witness the craftsmanship that has been perfected over centuries.

On the coast of Fujian province, the city of Xiamen, with its charming colonial architecture and the car-free island of Gulangyu, offers a delightful blend of history and seaside relaxation. Returning to Gansu, we'll explore the Mogao Caves near Dunhuang, another UNESCO World Heritage site, which houses an astonishing collection of Buddhist art spanning a thousand years. Also in Fujian province, we'll encounter the unique "tulou" roundhouses, massive earthen dwellings built by the Hakka people, showcasing a fascinating example of communal living and vernacular architecture.

Next, we'll visit the city of Dali in Yunnan, a hub of Bai culture, set against the backdrop of Erhai Lake and the Cangshan Mountains. The nearby town of Weishan will take us back to the time of the Nanzhao Kingdom, an ancient realm that once ruled this region. Lijiang, also in Yunnan, is renowned for its well-preserved old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and its vibrant Naxi culture, along with the stunning Jade Dragon Snow Mountain that towers over the city.

Finally, our journey will take us to the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, where we'll explore the karst landscapes of Guilin and Yangshuo. These iconic formations, rising dramatically from the Li River, have inspired poets and artists for centuries. In Guilin, we'll cruise down the Li River, taking in the breathtaking scenery, while in Yangshuo, we'll enjoy outdoor activities such as biking and rock climbing in this surreal landscape. We will then wrap up our travels in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province, a city known for its giant pandas, relaxed tea house culture, and fiery Sichuan cuisine. And last but not least, we'll visit Jiuzhaigou, also in Sichuan, a nature reserve of stunning natural beauty, featuring multi-level waterfalls and colorful lakes.

This book is not just about ticking off destinations on a list. It is about immersing yourself in the local culture, connecting with the people, and understanding the history that has shaped these remarkable places. It is an invitation to step outside your comfort zone and embrace the unexpected. It is also about responsible travel, respecting local customs, and supporting sustainable tourism practices that benefit the communities we visit. With each chapter, you will gain a deeper appreciation for the diversity and richness of China, a country that continues to evolve while holding onto its deep-rooted traditions. As you turn the pages, prepare to be surprised, inspired, and captivated by the hidden gems of the Middle Kingdom. This is China as you've never seen it before.

Nestled in a fertile valley in Jianchuan County, between the more famous Yunnanese destinations of Dali and Lijiang, lies the idyllic town of Shaxi. This remarkably preserved settlement offers a rare glimpse into a bygone era, a time when caravans laden with tea, salt, and other goods traversed the treacherous Tea Horse Road, connecting Yunnan's tea-growing regions with Tibet and beyond. Unlike its more bustling neighbors, Shaxi has managed to retain its historical charm and tranquility, making it a perfect starting point for our journey off the beaten track in China. It is still largely unknown to the outside world.

The Tea Horse Road, also known as the Southern Silk Road, was a network of caravan paths winding through the mountains of Sichuan and Yunnan in Southwest China and up into Tibet, India, and even as far as the Middle East. Unlike its more famous northern counterpart, which primarily transported silk, the Tea Horse Road was focused on the trade of tea from Yunnan for Tibetan horses, highly valued by Chinese emperors for their military. This centuries-old trade route not only facilitated the exchange of goods but also played a crucial role in the cultural and religious interactions between the Han Chinese, Tibetans, and various ethnic minorities residing along the route. The road was not just a commercial artery; it was also a conduit for Buddhism, with monks and pilgrims traveling alongside merchants, spreading their faith across the region.

Shaxi's history is deeply intertwined with the Tea Horse Road. Its strategic location made it a vital trading hub, particularly during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) when the tea-horse trade began to flourish. The town reached its zenith during the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1912 AD), becoming a prosperous center for the exchange of tea, horses, salt, and other commodities. The town's wealth during this period is evident in its well-preserved architecture, including traditional Bai-style courtyards, cobblestone streets, and the impressive Sideng Square, which served as the heart of Shaxi's commercial life. The Bai people, one of Yunnan's largest ethnic minorities, have long been the dominant group in the Shaxi Valley, and their unique culture and traditions are still very much alive today.

Sideng Square is not just a geographical landmark but the cultural and historical heart of Shaxi. This beautifully preserved square, paved with stones worn smooth by centuries of foot traffic and horse hooves, was once the bustling marketplace where merchants from different ethnic groups gathered to trade their goods. The square is surrounded by a collection of historic buildings, including the striking Xingjiao Temple, an ancient Buddhist temple dating back to the Ming Dynasty. This temple, with its intricate woodwork and colorful murals, is a testament to the religious diversity that flourished along the Tea Horse Road. It is one of the last remaining Buddhist temples in China that features a style that was popular with the Bai people, a style that dates back to the days of the Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902 AD) and the Dali Kingdom (937-1253 AD).

Another prominent structure in Sideng Square is the ancient theater stage, a raised wooden platform where performances, including traditional Bai opera, were once held. This stage, with its ornate carvings and vibrant colors, served not only as a venue for entertainment but also as a focal point for community gatherings and religious ceremonies. Today, the square remains a central gathering place for locals, and on market days, it still comes alive with vendors selling local produce, handicrafts, and other goods. The Friday market in Shaxi, in particular, is an incredible spectacle. It is not just a place to do your shopping. You can witness the traditional way of life in the region.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Shaxi is its commitment to preserving its architectural heritage. In the early 2000s, the local government, in collaboration with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich, embarked on a comprehensive restoration project known as the Shaxi Rehabilitation Project. This initiative aimed to revitalize the town's historic core while ensuring that its traditional character remained intact. The project focused on restoring Sideng Square and its surrounding buildings, as well as other key structures throughout the town. The restoration work was carried out using traditional materials and techniques, ensuring the authenticity of the architecture.

As a result of these efforts, Shaxi has become a model for heritage conservation in China. The town's success in balancing preservation with sustainable development has garnered international recognition, and it has been listed on the World Monuments Watch multiple times. Walking through Shaxi's streets today, one can truly appreciate the care and dedication that have gone into preserving its historical fabric. The absence of modern high-rises and neon signs creates a sense of stepping back in time, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the town's rich history and traditional Bai architecture. This architecture is characterized by its "three rooms and one screen wall" and "four courtyards and five patios" layout.

The Bai people, who have inhabited the Shaxi Valley for centuries, have played a crucial role in shaping the town's unique character. Their distinct culture is reflected not only in the architecture but also in their daily lives, their cuisine, and their vibrant festivals. The Bai are known for their intricate embroidery, their colorful traditional dress, and their unique culinary traditions. One of their most famous dishes is "rushan," a type of cheese made from cow's milk, which is often served fried or grilled. The Bai are also renowned for their "Three Course Tea" ceremony, a traditional ritual that involves serving three different types of tea, each with its own distinct flavor and symbolism.

Shaxi's culinary scene is a delightful blend of Bai traditions and Yunnanese flavors. The town's restaurants and food stalls offer a wide array of local specialties, from the aforementioned rushan to "mixian," rice noodles served in a variety of broths and toppings. One of the most popular local dishes is "cold chicken," a flavorful dish made with shredded chicken, rice noodles, and a spicy sauce. The town is also known for its "baba," a type of flatbread that is often served with savory fillings. For those with a sweet tooth, Shaxi offers a variety of local treats, including "flower cakes," pastries filled with rose petals or other floral ingredients.

Beyond its historical core, Shaxi is surrounded by stunning natural beauty. The town is nestled in a valley flanked by rolling hills, terraced fields, and the meandering Heihui River. The surrounding countryside offers ample opportunities for hiking, biking, and exploring traditional Bai villages. One of the most popular hikes is to Shibaoshan, a nearby mountain range that is home to a collection of ancient Buddhist grottoes. These grottoes, carved into the sandstone cliffs, contain hundreds of statues and carvings dating back to the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms. The Shibaoshan Grottoes are considered one of the most important examples of Bai Buddhist art in Yunnan.

The Heihui River, which flows through the Shaxi Valley, plays a vital role in the local ecosystem and the lives of the Bai people. Its waters irrigate the surrounding fields, sustaining the agricultural practices that have been the backbone of the local economy for centuries. The river is also a popular spot for fishing and other recreational activities. Along its banks, one can often see locals washing clothes, tending to their livestock, or simply enjoying the tranquility of the natural surroundings. The river's importance is further highlighted by the presence of several ancient bridges that span its waters, including the Yujin Bridge, a beautiful stone arch bridge that dates back to the Qing Dynasty.

The Yujin Bridge is not only a functional structure but also a symbol of Shaxi's historical significance as a trading hub along the Tea Horse Road. This elegant bridge, with its graceful arches and sturdy stone construction, has withstood the test of time and continues to serve as a vital link between different parts of the valley. Its name, which translates to "Jade Jin Bridge," is derived from a local legend that speaks of a precious jade stone being discovered in the riverbed during the bridge's construction. The bridge is a popular spot for photographers and visitors who come to admire its architectural beauty and the picturesque scenery that surrounds it.

In addition to its historical and natural attractions, Shaxi is also known for its vibrant festivals and cultural events. The most important of these is the annual Torch Festival, a traditional Bai celebration that takes place on the 25th day of the sixth lunar month. During this festival, locals gather to light torches, sing traditional songs, and perform dances to ward off evil spirits and pray for a bountiful harvest. The festival is a colorful and lively affair, with participants dressed in their finest traditional attire, and the streets of Shaxi come alive with music, dance, and the flickering light of countless torches.

Another significant event is the Prince's Fair, also known as the Taizihui Festival, which is celebrated on the eighth day of the second lunar month. This festival, which has its roots in Buddhism, is a time for locals to pay homage to their ancestors and pray for good fortune. During the Prince's Fair, a procession of monks and devotees carries a statue of the Buddha through the streets of Shaxi, accompanied by music, chanting, and offerings of incense and flowers. The festival culminates in a series of rituals and performances at the Xingjiao Temple, further highlighting the enduring influence of Buddhism in the region.

Shaxi's relative isolation has helped it preserve not only its architectural heritage but also its traditional way of life. Unlike many other destinations in China that have experienced rapid modernization and development, Shaxi has managed to retain a slower pace of life, where community ties remain strong, and traditional customs are still practiced. This is not to say that Shaxi has been untouched by progress. In recent years, the town has seen an increase in tourism, as more and more visitors discover its unique charm. However, the local government and residents have been careful to manage this growth in a sustainable way, ensuring that tourism benefits the community without compromising its cultural and environmental integrity.

One of the ways in which Shaxi has embraced sustainable tourism is through the promotion of homestays and guesthouses run by local families. These accommodations offer visitors a chance to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Bai people firsthand, while also providing a source of income for local residents. Many of these homestays are located in beautifully restored traditional courtyards, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the town's architectural heritage. Staying in a local homestay also provides an opportunity to learn more about Bai culture, cuisine, and daily life, as hosts are often eager to share their traditions and stories with their guests.

Shaxi's commitment to sustainability extends beyond its tourism industry. The town has also implemented various initiatives to protect its natural environment, including measures to conserve water, reduce waste, and promote organic farming practices. These efforts are crucial, given Shaxi's location in an ecologically sensitive area. The surrounding mountains are home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including several endangered species. By prioritizing environmental protection, Shaxi is ensuring that its natural beauty will be preserved for generations to come.

As you explore Shaxi, you'll find that the town's charm lies not only in its historical sites and natural beauty but also in the warmth and friendliness of its people. The locals, many of whom are members of the Bai ethnic group, are known for their hospitality and their strong sense of community. Whether you're sharing a meal with a local family, browsing the stalls at the Friday market, or simply strolling through the town's ancient streets, you'll be greeted with smiles and a genuine sense of welcome. It's this human connection that makes Shaxi such a special place, and it's a reminder that the true essence of travel lies not just in the places we visit but in the people we meet along the way.

Shaxi serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of preserving cultural heritage in a rapidly changing world. Its successful restoration and sustainable development model offer valuable lessons for other historic towns and cities, not just in China but around the globe. By valuing its past and embracing its traditions, Shaxi has created a unique and enriching experience for visitors, while also ensuring a vibrant future for its residents. It stands as a testament to the fact that progress and preservation can go hand in hand and that sometimes, the most rewarding journeys are those that take us off the beaten path and into the heart of a place where time seems to stand still. And thus, it is a fitting place to begin our exploration of China's hidden gems.